Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Harbor Freight tools is out-fitting my go-kit toolbox for free

That's right Guys and Gals, it seems the Harbor Freight, the ridiculously low price tool store, wants to outfit my go-kit toolbox.
Afternoon like many I received in the mail my copy of the "Tool Disposal Notice" aka the Harbor freight sales catalog. I have on the advice of Jerry Wellman taken hereafter know as "HFT" up on  their free tool offer. I have a couple of flashlights, two digital meters, now I will have a set of screw drivers to go in the kit.

Well I will be adding this to my kit plus a couple of other goodies I saw in the Notice, to my go-kit.
I feel that you will want to also.

Thursday, January 14, 2016

Information on programming Baofeng UV-5R Radios

Hey All,

So tonight I was able to speak to some people on the Inter-mountain Inter-tie (147.12Mhz) from my QTH.

I was listening to KG7ZZM and KE5WQY talking about Baofeng radios and the difficulties of programming them.

I had the opportunity to talk with them and share some of the information I have on these Chinese radios.

here are a copy of the pdfs that helped me to understand the Baofeng and program it better.

annotated Baofeng manual by KC9HI.pdf

I hope this helps them and any one else that needs to understand the baofeng uv-5r

73, KG7RZX

Wednesday, January 6, 2016

Modular case design - the classic road case.

Hey all,

I was surfing this evening and came across a N3LUD's YouTube video, where he was making a box out of plywood like I did for my ham-shack in a box.

He used some pretty pro parts like corner protectors and recessed handles. That got me thinking what if it was just a road case. Pros have been using them for years, and they protect expensive stuff, like guitars and drums and the like. Why not? Hmmm.

I will tell you that purchasing a basic case will cost about the same as a pelican case, and without any customization.
Well that was fun.........wait. N3LUD made one out of plywood. I like wood working and I made the first one out of wood. Maybe I can make one. Back to

Ok, I found a channel of a company named Reliable they have a series of videos that shows how to make pro boxes. I think that after watching the video below that I could make a road style box that would meet my needs.

Now I haven't priced everything, but I cannot imagine it being super crazy.
If I make it myself I can customize it to my specs. This bears some more research, but I think I like the idea.

I have seen some other custom stuff and It looks like you can do a lot of stuff with it. Including tables, boxes that lock together, etc.  I even saw one that had rack rails....
Even more modularity. Radios mounted to shelves and the such. It has a lot of possibilities.

I am sure there will be those that say "well it is not water / weather proof", and my answer will be yea, your right, but neither is your pelican while you are operating your rig. My son (unlicensed) says it looks heavy. I cannot dispute this because it might be, but the lovely thing is that you can put casters on the bottom or you can make the cases small enough to hand carry. You can also lock the cases together when you stack them.

So, there you go, an idea for a more custom Go-Box or Hamshack in abox. I look forward to building several to enclose my modular deployment kit. 

Saturday, December 26, 2015

Adjustable windom style antenna

Ok, so I had a qso with Dave Owen (K7VNH) and we were talking about windom style antennas.
We have this style at out club station K2LDS, and we are able to tune this for most of the bands with 1:1 SWR

During our Qso, I was having a difficult time explaining the tuning mechanism, so I decided to make a drawing. the picture below is a representaion of how our antenna works. We do not use an auto tuner with our radio rather we tune the antenna to the band we are working.  

This drawing show one leg of a window dipole antenna and how it adjusted. we set a carrier on the antenna and then move the wench watching the SWR meter until there is a 1:1 ratio. Once we are set then we start working stations. Usually we only need about 10 watts.

Note: the balm is a 4:1 and the wire and rope are connected with an insulator. The max sheave size is about 2" on the pulleys.

This design is not mine, but is the brain child of Joe Maughan (AA7J). We tried it with old battery powered drills to work as the wenches and change the lengths from the shack. However they are not very weather proof. So in the end we went back to the hand wenches.

Thursday, December 17, 2015

PowerPax Store-a-cells

I have been making my list of items that need to go in my go-kit. On that list I have the standard radio, ear phones, speaker mic, alkaline battery pack, and alkaline batteries. But you know the box that you purchase the batteries in does not last. Sooner then later the box gets crushed and the batteries spill out into the nether regions of my back pack. Then I'm digging for a battery......or worse two. no this just not efficient.
Enter in the powerpax storeacell device.

This device helps store your AA (or other) batteries for use with your HT.
Not only that, they make it easy to test your batteries quickly with the positive and negative ends exposed enough to place test probes on each battery testing.

You can purchase several models from 4 to 12 packs and in several colors. Including one that glows green in the dark.
An all around wonderful product. That is until you want to purchase one to try out. A 12 AA block like the one pictured above will set you back around $7.00.... not too bad, Then comes shipping via USPS FIRST CLASS which takes 10 days. That will set you back an additional $8.00ish. Ouch!

Well kids, I found a work around, a social hack if you will. Home Depot, the big box home improvement store, will sell you a powerpax long as it is orange. Which really isn't a bad deal. Home Depot will ship to store for free in about the same amount of time.
So if you want to try one out and don't want to spend a fortune this is a pretty good route.

I have to say as I have been using it with my batteries in my back pack. I have already found the value of not having to dig around for a loose battery as I can just pull one from the block with ease.

I have inserted both alkaline and Ni-MH batteries, they all fit fine in the slots and are easy to place and remove from the holder. I like the Eneloop rechargeable AA (HR6) from Costco.

To sum up, I would purchase more of these to put in several different place of my go-kit. It is a #1 pick for this operator.

For more information on the PowerPax Stor-a-cell, see the video below or Goto their website 

Well I hope you have time to check these out, I like them and they are very helpful,

73 till next time KG7RZX

Saturday, November 28, 2015

How to take the worry out of Charging Batteries

Hey all,

Thought I would elaborate on the Charging system that was recommended by Larry Jacobs WA7ZBO.

We all use batteries of some type in our radio go-kits, I personally use a smattering of different AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) Batteries. Mine come from old security, fire systems, and UPS systems that were changed out as regular maintenance. Now while used, they still have a lot of life in them if properly maintained. Here in lies my trouble, how do I charge these batteries so that I can squeeze the maximum amount of life from them. Larry gave me the answer and it is Genius.

So here it is:

You can use a Solar Charge Controller to charge your batteries. A Charge Controller does not care where it is getting current from as long as it falls within the window of voltage and current ( mine being 0-100VDC at 20A) you can use PV Panels, A power supply (Larry suggested a laptop power supply), Car power (usually around 14.2V), or even a hand crank or foot crank Generator.

Here is my Charge Controller. It handles the proper care and feeding of my AGM batteries.

This is one of the batteries that I have in the parallel array. Thanks to Roy W7ROY for the batteries.

This is the label on the power supply that I use to charge the array. I think I need a bigger one as this one gets really hot during a charge cycle. I think I need to upgrade to 90 Watt supply. I will have to watch the local salvage places. Note the voltage it 19V @ 3.42A, Still a little small for my system. 

The charger works like this, it first bulk charges the battery, then a phase that is called Boost, but is better explained as equalize, as it equalizes the different batteries in the array. Then it float charges the battery, also known as absorption. Finally the controller trickle charges the battery as needed. 

One of the features of this system is also that it will disconnect the batteries from the load if the battery voltage drops below 11.1V. This will prevent me from damaging the batteries from over-discharge. 

I have tested this system on a small scale in my hamshack and have found that the system works well.
I am excited to add this to my go-kit power module as now I don't have to worry if the batteries will be charged correctly. I can charge my battery module on the way to the deployment from the car voltage so it is topped off when I get there and I don't have to worry, I don't have to worry, I don't have to worry, I don't have to worry. Do you sense a reoccurring theme?

Here is a link to the controller that I have, it is a Tracer-2210RN Charge Controller Regulator.
Now I did not pay what they want for this. I got mine at a salvage place for about $25 in the box. They really had no clue what they had nor did they really care so more gain to me.

Well there you have it, a mind blowing little concept that will help you make your battery module a more worry free part of your go-kit. Remember worry is a poor use for your imagination.

de KG7RZX 73


Friday, November 27, 2015

Learned a lot from this Conferance

While I don't agree with aspects of ARES and RACES. I found the content from the presenters to be pretty pertinent. I took many ideas and insights from the conference.
I will say that it is really slow until about 45 minutes in. all you will miss is the roll call.
the two presenters were Jerry Wellman W7SAR and Larry Jacobs WA7ZBO 
both of these gentlemen had great ideas and I value them as great Elmer in their own respect.

Things that I found interesting were the concept of  a modular go kit, and a charging solution that takes the guessing out of maintaining batteries.

Some of the things I took away from their presentations were as follows:

  • Go Kits should be modular so that you can customize the gear to the deployment assignment.
  • Fancy radios are not going to be better then reliable radios.
  • You should have checklists for each module and each planned event that you plan on going to.
  • You should repack you modules after each event to keep them ready. Do it after the event so you don't forget.
  • Filter what is neat from what is needed.
  • Learn from inconvenience. Take notes
  • Eat a MRE or two. See if you like them, Find a couple that you do and use them for food on a deployment.
  • Pack water or a means to filter or treat water. 
  • Have tools as part of your go kit. Include spare parts like fuses.
  • Make sure your Anderson Power Pole connectors are oriented correctly (ie. facing the pole, tabs down the red is on the left.)
  • Mark your gear - enough said.
  • Be a volunteer professional.
  • Using a Solar Charge Controller to take the uncertainty out of charging batteries and making the charging sources various.
I plan on taking these things into consideration when I redesign my go kit. My version 1.0 kit is not nearly as comprehensive as these that I saw. 

I am currently in the midst of designing version 2.0 and I have found the value of Checklists,
and modularity to make my "go-kit" work for me. 

"The nice thing about not planing is that failure will come as a complete surprise."

Stay tuned for more on this.

de kg7rzx 73.